Week 50: I went to Rangpur, but it is in Dhaka where you'll find the 'Rajdhanir Raja'

50th-1st in Dhaka 8/13

I bought more pineapples last night. I asked Moweena to cut them up this morning. But this time without using a chili! Last time she added a chili to my pineapple, as that is what is typically done in Bangladesh. Spicy!
Also had a discussion with her this morning about what the different words to describe fruits and vegetables are after she told me my pineapple was unripe. There were three words we were throwing around, and I was trying to find out which was which. One seemed to be for when it was on the tree and unripe, one for when its off the tree and unripe, and one when its rip. And for when its bad: she just said “throw it away” but never gave me a vocabulary word.

I then headed out to work, but first stopped by New Market to pick up my cuff links. I found the guy, and after waiting there about 5 minutes as they dealt with two other customers, he turns to me and says the didn’t make my cuff links. He told me he went to ten jewelers and no one wanted to make them. So he handed me my pearls back, and gave me my deposit back. I was frustrated.
Stormed upstairs to find that elusive jeweler who could help me. I had talked to another guy in the past and went to him. This guy said he could do it, with a confident voice, and I trusted him. We arranged a design, and even decided to add another pearl to the design, and he says it’ll be ready in a week. I’m paying him a bit more, new pearls excluded.

I then hopped on four bus routes on a bus I had never ever ridden before, the #36. I’d heard about it in fables: it only allows sitting, and is very strict about it, and provides very quick service. Nafisa used to ride it to work and back. It was my finally my turn. I boarded it in Azimpur, and was a bit confused about the boarding. There was a line, but not everyone was allowed to board. Confused. So I got in line. It only allowed 10 of us on. At the next stop, with 50 people waiting in line, only another 10. Same at the next! And at the last, 10 more, filling all 40 seats of the bus, no more no less. And we were off, straight to our destination, no stops mid-route.
I rode the route four times, and it wasn’t until the last time that the bus got caught in a jam. And what a jam! Took us one hour to go about 3 km. it was horrible. When I got off, instead of taking a bus home through the jam. I walked. It was faster. All the buses I passed walking never passed me back. I got home, grabbed my India travel book and brought it to dinner where Erin wanted to copy pages from it for her trip to India next week. In all, I must’ve power walked for 40 minutes!
Dinner with Erin was great. We haven’t seen each other in a long time. And thus could talk for hours catching up on stuff. We ate at Korai Gost, and she enjoyed their quality Bangladeshi food.

50th-2nd in Dhaka 8/14

Today was a successful day. I did a morning data collection at Tejgaon, standard curbside stuff. Then I waited for Shegufta and another guy who would help us collect survey data on passengers. I was nervous for this, wondered how it would go. I had only recently decided to go forward with this, thanks to some prodding by my dad.

Was out there doing a bus count before they arrived. Realized before they came that I really don't have the best Bengali to be asking these questions quickly to bus passengers rushing to get on the bus. So I figured if both of them came, I could ask them to take on the interviews, and I would be there collecting data on the buses passing and the rough male/female split of the survey group.
The site I chose for the surveying I realized was good for many reasons. One, the local and ticket bus crowds are separated by a distance, so we could survey them separately and know our survey groups. As well, the buses, due to traffic control, come in waves. So we had large time gaps to interview people without them being distracted by arriving buses.
I had crafted three questions that I felt could clearly help understand what passengers are thinking. Simply: Do crowded buses frustrate you? Do you try to avoid crowded buses? Would you pay more for no crowding?They arrived, we went over the questions, and I asked them to translate them into Bengali. I listened to see if I liked how it was being translated. Making sure they interpreted what I wanted correctly. I then told the boy to stand near the local bus riders and interview them, and I told Shegufta to take on the ticket bus riders.Shegfuta did amazing. She had no issue walking up to each person and demanding an interview. I thought being a girl would be detrimental, but instead, I think it helps her. The women will talk to her without worry, and the boys all take up the chance to talk to a girl! On the other hand, the guy she brought to help had a harder time, I can’t imagine what I’d experience. (pics: Shegufta interviewing passengers, Shihab interviewing passengers, Shegufta gets swarmed by young guys hoping she'll interview them, myself/Shegufta after collecting data)






























We collected almost 300 responses to my questions! About 50/50 ticket and local. Incredible. I couldn't have done it without them, and told them that.

I then went and rode the #3 bus twice. Some jams. Nothing spectacular. Got a bit sleepy but didn’t nod off.
One old man who sat next to me talked to me about Michael Phelps and how impressive his gold medals are. That was cool. Glad Mr. Phelps is being a good ambassador for my country. The Bangladeshis have 6 athletes in the game, in shooting sports and swimming, but none performed very well. In fact, Bangladesh’s best shooter is currently in jail, and it was clearly disappointing to my friends.

I collected data in the evening at Kakoli bus stand. It started raining a bit, and it made it a bit uncomfortable for awhile. but it stopped after a bit, and the crowd under the overhang I was at dispersed, and then counting became a bit easier. After my work I went to a nearby stall to get some popcorn. One of the guys selling recognized me from another time I’d been working at Kakoli, and asked how I was. This prompted another guy to ask me if I had popcorn in my country. I said of course. And he explained how popcorn only came to Bangladesh just two years ago. I confirmed this later with a friend. Popcorn in Bangladesh for only two years! (pic: Kakoli bus stand at night...the bright light in front is the popcorn stall)
















50th-3rd in Dhaka 8/15

Found this article this morning through one of the blogs I read, The City Fix. It touches on so many topics that I had wanted to cover in my initial project: the analysis of the Jatrabari flyover. But due to its cancellation because of corruption, I switched to the bus project. But the article also talks about the pedestrian issue, which had been my second project choice to the crowded bus study. It’s so cool that the issues I’m interested in are written up in one article! I feel like I would’ve been able to write this, I should be the expert by now!
It talks about pedestrians not using over bridges or tunnels, but I’ve seen police easily solve this problem at several locations, namely Kakoli and Bangla Motor. Although there is still some non-usage, the police have really gotten people onto the bridge. The bridges though don’t seem ready for it though. The Bangla motor bridge for example ALWAYS has lines to get up the stairs, because the pathway isn’t large enough to handle the volumes.

Went to see a movie at Bolaka Cinema tonight. Toma and I had talked about going to see a Bangladeshi movie for a few months, and finally we upped and did it. We arrived at 6:45, and the ticket seller said the movie had started at 6:30. But knowing that I wouldn’t understand much anyway, that most Bangladeshi movies’ plots really don’t need much to understand, and we were just going for pure entertainment, we didn’t mind being 15 minutes late. Actually, we walked in and the movie was just starting, perfect timing.
The only other time I’ve seen a movie was Pirates of the Caribbean 3 at the nice theater at Bashundara City. Bolaka’s actual theater was bigger and much older. It had three seating sections separated by price: those closest to the screen were the cheapest, in back were the middle range seats, and the balcony had the most expensive seats. The cheap seats were packed, Toma said with rickshaw wallahs (others have told me this too.) but I was also told this theater is popular with Dhaka University students (but they are out of session right now.)
The movie was a riot. I’d seen Bangladeshi movies before, but live was much better. At least 12 characters with speaking parts were killed in the in same scene in which they were introduced, and of course scores of cronies of the bad and good guys were killed off in every scene. So much blood. If this was real life, Bangladesh would be the least densely populated country in the world in less than a year.
The movie itself was blurry at points, and the whole time had scratches on the film.
People got up to pee continuously, and it seemed people walked out to pee more often during the movie’s songs. People could be heard talking somewhere in the theater the entire time. Phones rang frequently and people always picked up. People cheered when the hero did something great, and roared with laughter at parts (at some parts why they laughed Toma didn’t even know.)
The movie had so many characters! I couldn’t keep track with who was who, who was bad, who was good, who loved who. It felt the many plot lines wouldn’t even connect, but apparently they did…and I don’t know how. The hero was in the first scene of the movie, and I swear he then didn’t show up for another 35 minutes while a million other things happened which I didn’t understand how they related to the hero.
After the unannounced intermission, placed at the end of a random scene, there were more previews for more movies coming soon, some English.
Toma said most people come just to see the movies’ actresses, or starlettes, because of the slightly revealing clothing they wear.
Although an action movie, the movie is clearly intentionally a bit silly. The reactions and facial expressions are priceless. The bloodshed unstoppable. The songs full of love amidst falling bodies. fun to dance to. The best part was the crowd who cheered and booed and laughed, and I only wished they did it more!
Oh and the movie was called “Rajdhanir Raja” or “King of the Capital.” The plot was roughly about our hero who decides to leave one side of a city’s rivaling big wigs to the other side. He cuts his wild hair and falls in love with his new boss’ daughter. In the end he kills off everyone from his old side. There were so many other fighting parts and mini plots that I don’t even understand, but this was the gist of it. Swords and guns should really be given the leading roles. (pics: Bolaka theater's advertisement for 'Rajdhanir Raja', Bolaka's main lobby, Bolaka's theater during intermission, movie poster for 'Rajdhanir Raja')



































50th-4th in Rangpur 8/16

This morning I headed to the Hanif bus station to meet Ayon and his Dhaka University friend Turzo. We were heading up to Turzo’s home in Rangpur to spend a few days relaxing and hanging out. Turzo had invited me about two months prior, and I was glad to come along.

The bus ride up was 6 hours long, and Turzo and I sat together. We chatted almost the whole way, getting to know each other. Turzo’s mother was also on the bus with us, as she had been in Dhaka for the wedding of two of Turzo’s cousins (I am told it is legal in Islam for two cousins to marry.) The girl cousin, the new bride, was on the way back to Rangpur for a few days before coming back to be with her new husband.
I asked Turzo on the way up how many brothers and sisters he had. One younger brother and one younger sister he told me. I asked their ages, and he said his brother was 13, and in fact, his sister was a twin. I laughed that he calls her his younger sister, not his twin. He told me he is 30 minutes older than his sister, but purposely refers to her as a younger sister! I asked if it is just to tease her that he came out first, and he said of course. And he insisted in childhood that she call him the respectful title of “paiya” and not by his name, because he was older.

We arrived in the late afternoon, and after freshening up at his home, we headed over to Carmichael College. This was very close by to Turzo’s home. It is a large expanse of land that has a prominent college in Bangladesh, from which Turzo’s father graduated.. The buildings are from the early 1900s. We roamed the grounds a bit, but it was already getting dark, so we didn’t stay long. Instead we headed into town, ate some chotputi, sat on the steps of a Shahid Minar and chatted. Took some tea which Turzo was proud to say was made with fresh milk. (pics: Ayon walking by Carmichael College, Ayon/Turzo in front of Carmichael College's main building)




















We enjoy a lot of guavas from Turzo’s guava tree behind his house. After not having guava my whole life up until last week, I’ve now eaten a bunch in just a few short days. (pics: Turzo climbing his guava tree to find some good guavas, a mostly-eaten guava)





















Got to play carrom today for the first time. I have the game on my phone, and although I’ve seen people playing it in storefronts, I’ve never gotten the chance to play. The game is played on a board covered in a bit of sand. You flick disks at each other in a fashion similar to billiards. The goal is to get the smaller disks into the holes for points. It was hard to get used to, and I never really was having much luck in aiming by the end. Flicking the disks with the fingers was incredibly hard. Turzo showed us two different types of games that can be played, they both were enjoyable. (pics: Ayon/Turzo/Turzo's brother playing carrom, myself playing carrom)
















50th-5th in Rangpur 8/17

Today is a major holiday, Shab-e-Bara'at. Also known as Mid-Sha’ban in most of the Muslim world, one is to spend all night praying. On this day Allah is chooses the destiny of all people on earth for the coming year. It earns its name in South Asia from this, the night of emancipation. When I got up to use the toilet in the middle of the night, I could hear people nearby reciting prayers. Kids like to pop firecrackers on this holiday too says Turzo, and I heard a few pop in the evening and one in the morning.

After breakfast, we headed first to a cold storage building, that his father has a part in owning. We were given a tour of the refrigeration equipment, power supply, and then actually into the storage holds where 110,000 bags of potatoes are being held. It was pretty cold in there, but not unbearable. There were five floors of potatoes, all sitting there staying fresh.
We then climbed up some rickety metal ladders to the roof and took a view of the surrounding landscape. (pics: cold storage employee/Ayon/Turzo roaming the cold storage and stacks of potatoes, myself amongst the potatoes in cold storage, Turzo climbing on the ladder of the cold storage facility, the view over the land from the top of the cold storage facility)






























From there Turzo took us to a rajbari called Tajhat Palace, built during the 19th century. Today the museum inside just happened to be closed. We walked around it, looked at its exterior, played around, and took pictures. After we sat under a tree in the grass. Was a bit hot out. (pics: Ayon/Turzo in front of Tajhat Palace, Ayon so upset over the museum being closed that he takes it out on me while I was napping)
















We headed home for lunch. His mom made some excellent hilsa fish. We showered and then headed out to Carmichael College again. We wandered the grounds until it started pouring. We sat under the main hall’s overhang for about 45 minutes, meanwhile we played Shollo Guti. (pic: myself/Ayon playing shollo guti)
















We headed over to the weekly market, known as a “hat [hot]” in Bengali. We were planning to buy a duck for dinner. We thought to explore the rest of the market, but due to the rain, the area was flooded, so we skipped it, but I got this shot of the cow part of the market. Then headed to the ducks. There was a giant basket of baby ducks. We looked at the ducks, and chose the one we wanted. Turzo had me carry it, grasping it tightly by its wings pulled behind its back. It didn’t squirm at all; it’s feet were tied already by the man whole sold it to us. (pics: the cows at the weekly market, baby ducks in a basket, Turzo choosing our duck for dinner, myself carrying the duck home)






























At home, we had to slaughter the duck for his mother so she could cook dinner. I held the neck and body while Turzo held the head, and sliced the neck’s main vein. He explained we were slaughtering it in a prescribed way to ensure the food was halal under Islamic law. This is the first time in my life I have played a role in preparing meat beyond the cooking. (pic: Turzo/myself slaughtering the duck for dinner)
















We went after this to go buy my bus ticket for tomorrow. As well, we headed by rickshaw across town to see the gate of Turzo’s old school. We couldn’t go inside as it was night, but even in the day, random visitors aren’t allowed. So he just pointed to things over the fence.

50th-6th in Rangpur 8/18

We headed out this morning to visit the birthplace of Begum Rokeya, famous for her works for getting women’s education accepted in Bengal, and pioneering many women’s rights ideas. She is a native of Rangpur, and her place of birth was relatively close to Turzo’s home. The house is now just a foundation, but it’s also an ornamented garden. Since there was no information about the woman there, I asked Turzo to tell me more about her. He told me a detailed history of her life and the struggles she went through. It is incredible the effort she had to put into convincing women themselves they deserved an education. He explained how many Bengali women were superstitious about even talking to her, and would shut the door on her, and then pour water over her from an upstairs window as she turned to leave. She was also an accomplished writer having many of her essays, poems, and stories published. Her biggest impacts may have been her fight against the injustices she saw for Muslim women in Bengal, fighting against the restrictions that hurt their physical and emotional growth. (pic: Ayon at the home in which Begum Rokeya was born)
















After lunch, I headed home. The bus ride home was fun. I started reading “Freedom at Midnight” and was flying through the pages. Another book which my father left behind for me. Very thankful he did. Once it got dark, I put on my CDs. Despite all my traveling in Bangladesh, this is only my second bus ride alone. Guess I’ll have a lot more in India next month.

The ride was fine, but as usual, after the snack break, I had to pee. Yes I peed at the stop, and I had not been drinking any water. But suddenly at the Jamuna Bridge, 2 hours at least from Dhaka, I had to go. It just got worse and worse. I decided that I would get off the bus outside of Dhaka when they let off some passengers, but close enough that I could still board a Dhaka city bus to finish the journey in. Then it stared raining, and everyone shut the windows. So now it was hot and stuffy, we were going slower because of the rain, and I had to pee still. We hit the stretch of road where I could get off the next time the bus stopped and then a miracle happened. We hit a really bad traffic jam. Our bus stopped, and it looked like we wouldn’t move for an hour. I got off the bus and went to the side of the road and had the most relieving pee of my recent memory.

The jam was bad. We didn’t move at all. Then to make things worse, cars and buses behind us decided they’d use the opposing traffics lane to scoot to the front of the line when no vehicles were coming. Then that lane got backed up! This made things worse obviously, because the opposing traffic now had nowhere to move, and thus whatever was causing the jam ahead was not being solved. (pic: stuck in a jam in the rain at night coming back to Dhaka)
















50th-7th in Dhaka 8/19

Erin called me this morning. She had denied an Indian visa, and although I couldn’t do anything to help, she was just calling to express her anger and annoyance. Why, they wouldn’t say. But now all her travel plans to India have to be scrapped. It’s such a shame. I can’t see why she would be denied. Everyone seems to leave the Indian Embassy in Dhaka with a horror story of some sort. She waited there to get an answer but as given none. She tried calling, and was hung up on several times and until she was screamed at for repeatedly calling.

I rode four buses today, the jams were incredible, especially on the first route. An hour just to go a few blocks. It rained pretty bad today, and that’s what was causing the jams I guess. In front of my house it was flooded, meaning I had to wade through ankle deep gray water. Gross, but what else can you do. Long after the rain was gone, the jams persisted. I said it before, I think the traffic has gotten worse since I’ve arrived.

People always seem to point out that I have a few “red dots” on my face. They comment saying that I have mosquito bites. Nope, sorry I have to say, they are called pimples, and only because of my fair skin they stand out as opposed to someone with a darker complexion. It’s a bit embarrassing since they are pointing out pimples I have, but not so much since they don’t realize that is what it is. They seem quite concerned that I’m getting too many mosquito bites. This has happened over ten times at least.

Tonight I went to get my hair cut. I went to a new place that I’d seen recently open up. It looked really nice inside. I walked in, and they were playing a song by the Bangladeshi rock band Artcell, one of my favorites. So I figured the place was perfect: great music, great décor, and that would surely translate to a great haircut. Well the great haircut was good, but I had to backtrack on my statement of good music. I should just say “good song.” They played that same song almost the entire time I had a haircut. On the sixth play, I asked if they had anything else. They let the song play once more before they changed it.

Week 49: After being on these buses so long, I can't wait to ride my lifelong love again soon: TRAIN!

49th-1st in Dhaka 8/6

Spent part of the day updating my paper for the conference. I had gotten some comments from Dr. Rahman, and some others from when my dad had read through the paper. I worked through what were issues, discussed some of it with Saket and Samantha online, and produced a piece which I’m very proud to submit. I went out to get the copyright form and registration form printed out.

In the afternoon, after spending the majority of the day doing all this, I went out and rode two buses. I did the #13 two times, and the ride back was the most I’d ever seen the bus get crowded. It was great data! I had a good time collecting despite it being really uncomfortable on the bus…it’s crowded remember?

49th-2nd in Dhaka 8/7

I woke up with a bit of heartburn, and a pain in my stomach. Didn’t want to do the morning data collection. Somehow I convinced myself to get up and go to Kalabagan though. It was only one hour, and I thought I could handle it. I did, it wasn’t fun, but now it’s out of the way. At home, I rested. Was not feeling good. Had some breakfast, despite the heartburn, of rice and fish.
I then organized myself to go submit my paper to the conference. I got the paper printed out three times somewhere, burned the CD, and got the materials to send to India. I went to Sundarbans Courier Service last night and they said they send to India. So I went back today to send. I wrote the envelope out, and put everything inside. They then picked it up, looked inside, and told me they can’t send CDs. While they were discussing amongst each other why they can’t do this, I grabbed my stuff and walked out.

I ended up having to take all these things to DHL. They were willing to ship it, but it is expensive. Had to pay, no other choice as far as I can tell. While there, I asked them again about prices to ship things to the US. It is also very expensive. I really need to figure out what I’m doing about all this stuff I want to bring home. Especially since it costs so much just to bring it on the planes.

I saw these guys on the street in Azimpur. Always tried to get a shot of the guys with the bees! (pic: these men sell honeycomb, but they keep it fresh with lots of bees...and then walk around with this bowl full of honey and bees on their head) [and I have to add that I have been singing this song since I saw these guys because of the second line "I've got bees on my head, but don't call me a bee head": the theme song from the Andy Milonakis Show (didn't post this originally but my friend Ben sent me the youtube link so I decided to post)]
















I then rode the #9 bus, and boy did it fly through its route. The bus got super packed too! Buses like this are exact reasons why my original hypothesis was wrong.
During and after I was feeling sick still. Perhaps it was lunch, maybe stuff lingering from the morning. But although I wanted to ride one more bus, I couldn’t bring myself to do it, and instead took a bus straight home.

At home I was sick, maybe the worst of all my times. I drank saline and ate crackers, but that only helped so much. I tried watching movies, but all I had were boring, and I ended up falling asleep.

49th-3rd in Dhaka 8/8

Still not feeling too good today when I woke up. Stomach pain. Hungry, but afraid to eat. I had enough energy though to make it over to Auvi’s place. We had been planning for me to come back over for lunch sometime, as he wanted to serve me the beef I loved when I ate there last time. We also had plans to discuss our trip to Chittagong sometime in the coming month.
I had lunch there, which his mother encouraged me to eat. I took rice and some vegetables on my plate, and she also insisted I eat some beef and chicken. Nothing spicy, nothing oily. Just foods to fill me and get me back to a normal diet.
After lunch we hung out in Auvi’s room. His friend Zarif was over too. They are in the middle of their final exams of their last semester at university. Zarif was studying for an exam. They also have a final project due next week, they have to build a line following robot. And they haven’t even started. Auvi tried explaining to me why, and what they’re going to do, but I still never really understood how there was any way anything was going to happen.
We worked out our Chittagong trip dates. We’re going to travel two weekends from now. Next weekend I’ll be in Rangpur with Ayon and his university friends. I’m excited.

After spending the afternoon there, Zarif and I headed back to Dhanmondi together. I watched “Harold and Kumar Escape from Guantanamo Bay” I liked it a lot, enough to go back and watch the original afterward. I ate dinner at home of crackers and soup as my stomach still wasn’t 100%

49th-4th in Dhaka 8/9

Moweena took a giant bag of recyclables today. She said she’ll get Tk15 per kg at the scrap junk place. Bottles and paper and plastic, she’ll get money for all of this. The bag was half her size! She collects all the stuff in the kitchen. When I realized what she was doing, I stopped throwing things away and put them in the kitchen instead, so she wouldn't have to go through the garbage later. (pics: Moweena with the bag of recyclables, all the items we've saved over the past two months)

The places in which you sell this stuff confused me for the first few months. Even when my father asked me what it was on my parents’ visit, I didn’t know at the time. The places look like stores selling garbage, or perhaps nothing at all.

I’m feeling a bit better today, but rice and fish for breakfast wasn’t very appetizing.

Diya picked me up in her father’s car and we went to a movie screening in Gulshan. Her friend Adnan had produced with his friends a film about historical sites and history of Bangladesh. They called it “Finding Bangladesh” and they were motivated by their lack of knowledge about their own country. They had the Westin’s ballroom reserved, with lots of chairs set up in front of a giant screen.
Geared to students, and light on the seriousness, it had them exploring the best sites of Bangladesh, in an effort to educate kids about what is really out there. The film was funny, they did a great job editing, and although there were points where it was a tad awkward, it was a good production. If I had to make recommendations to them, it’d be to remove some of their personal sentiments. Their input about repainting Ahsan Manzil pink as disheartening, or that the government isn’t doing a good job maintaining certain sites, made the film lose a bit of credibility as an educational tool. Also, I would recommend them to get all their facts straight. They dated some buildings several centuries too early, especially in Sonargaon where they labeled a group of 18th century buildings 13th century. As well, they said one old temple was 100 meters tall! That would make it the tallest building in Bangladesh! It looked more about 10 meters tall. I’ll forgive them for their spelling mistakes that showed up on film.
The best parts were definitely recognizing that this is the first film of its kind by students in Bangladesh. Very impressive. They have no budget, yet took the time to visit the places and see all the sites. Then edit and make an hour plus long film. And then get it out to the public so well!
They have two more films to go, as they split the country up into thirds, covering two divisions in each film. Was very glad Diya invited me along to this. (pics: Diya and the invitation to the movie screening, the giant screen and stage before the screening of "Finding Bangladesh")
















Diya’s mom picked us up to go home. On the way back we stopped at the BDR shop, a supermarket of sorts, her mom needed to get eggs. Diya wanted to wait in the car, but I was glad to go in with her mom. Being there, looking at the few shelves, and watching her with the shopping cart, made me think of being with my own mother at Foodtown. I just looked at the shelves and bought some things too: spring rolls, chocolate chip cookies, juice. Diya came in as we were checking out. I had wanted to help bag, but there were many gentlemen there to do that for us. The resulting outcome: I miss helping my mother shop for food, and look forward to it when I get home! (pic: Diya and her mother at the BDR shop)

I watched a movie tonight, and was eating dinner during. But the audio and visual tracking lost each other, and it was annoying to watch after that. Turned it off and went to bed.

49th-5th in Dhaka 8/10

I went to Auvi’s around lunchtime as we were going to go to Kamalapur Station to buy our train tickets. We had lunch there as well. But things didn’t turn out so well when we went to the station. The tickets aren’t on sale until two days from now, which is surprising as the trip is only 11 days away. It seemed a bit ridiculous to both of us.

Had raw guava for the first time today. Didn’t know the things that everyone were eating like an apple were guavas! Probably never would’ve tried it if Auvi hadn’t handed me a piece. I’ve only had it in juice form, and I think I recall it being pink then, while this was entirely white.

After this, I went to Tejgaon where I did two evening data collections, one on either side of the road. It was raining, and so I had to stand underneath an umbrella the entire time. Luckily I had something to rest my clipboard on so I could still write and hold the umbrella at the same time. No one bothered to talk to me tonight because no one wanted to be in the rain, of course if they wanted to stand under my umbrella, I would’ve been totally fine with it.

After I went and got a snack, which ended up being my dinner, at a bakery. I found a fried roll with pasta inside! Very interesting, that I ordered an extra. However, despite its tastiness, what I really wanted tonight was a Grease Trucks’ Fat Sandwich, the wonderful food sold at Rutgers University. So filling, so tasty. Texted Chris, an RU alumnus, to let him know.

49th-6th in Dhaka 8/11

I left my house early to head to Tejgaon again for the morning data collection. For some reason it was really hard to get there! A pain! Took a half hour to cross to Dhanmondi. My first rickshaw went a bizarre way and I had to leave him and take another as we were stuck. Then the bus was stuck in a massive jam, and I was crushed like never before inside.
I honestly feel the jams have gotten worse in Dhaka since I arrived. More frequent and longer waits.

I did the first data collection. The ticket guy near me recognized me from another place another day.
After that I headed up to Gulshan. Got breakfast at Coffee World, and had a waffle.
Saw that A&W got closed down. Asked a guard across the street what happened and when. He said it was one week ago, and it was because they had not paid their rent in 3 years! I guess I won’t be having Iftar there this year.
Went to the Jet Airways office to check out airfares. Decided against flying them, I’d only be doing it for flight miles, and it’s too much for what I’d be earning. Will fly budget airlines for sure.
Went by UPS and FedEx today, and very surprisingly they are much much cheaper than DHL! 3 times as cheap. My calculations tell me that for a 25kg package through DHL, it would cost $650 to ship to the US. UPS is only $260 and FedEx is $198! Bizarre a little. Both UPS and FedEx have a 25kg box special that is a great deal, the prices above. I pick up the box from then, fill it up, and ship it, up to 25kg. So I’ll be doing that for sure. Only catch is the box is a fixed size that isn’t too big, so I want to make sure I put my heaviest things in it, to make sure it hits the 25kg.

Went back to Tejgaon to do two more midday data collections, one on either side of the road. Nothing exciting, it started to rain a bit again and I had to use the umbrella. (pics: my simple tools for counting buses, the best picture I've caputred of a crowded bus and people running to the door and cramming every last spot)
















Later I went to Ferdous tailors to pick up my tuxedo! I was very excited to see the final product. I got there and they gave me piece by piece to try on, starting with the pants, then the jacket then the shirt and then the cummerbund. It all looked great. Fit perfectly. Was very impressed. Now I just need an occasion to wear it!

At my evening data collection tonight at Banani bus stand I saw a foreigner buying a bus ticket! I never have before seen this. I’ve always been the only one, unless I’m dragging someone else on the bus with me. I kind of wanted to talk to him.

After I met with Toma at Bella Italia, where we had great pizza (kind of like Federici’s in Freehold) and seafood pasta. Had been craving it for awhile. Then we went across the street to Andersen’s Ice Cream for a sundae. Her driver picked us up, and he dropped me off at Sat Rasta, from there I took a rickshaw to Farmgate. This was much faster than taking the #6 to Farmgate. The driver said I went through a “dangerous” place, but I feel like people would say that about half the places I go or do here. (pics: Toma having seafood pasta at Bella Italia, myeslf and a delicious ice cream sundae)
















49th-7th in Dhaka 8/12

Worked on planning my India trip this morning. I’m throwing around different itineraries to see what best fits what I want to see. My friend Megan has been giving me advice on Kolkata, but for the rest I’m searching internet sites and books to see how much time I should spend in each spot. The train times I want never seem to exist, so I have to work within what is there.
I think I have a schedule I think I like, now that I’ve decided to take the train from Dhaka to Kolkata on the 7th. Emailed the conference organizers to affirm that I need to be there on the 12th, so I don’t show up for something unimportant. They confirmed that I really should be there.

Went to Rampura bus stand to do a midday data collection. The ticket collectors there were the most interested about my work than any others before. They didn’t leave my side, except to sell a ticket or two on their infrequent buses, the entire hour. They asked lots of questions, and I had no issue entertaining them as long as I could still work. The road was easy to count as traffic moves so slow there.

After this I took a bus down to Kamalapur Railway Station to wait for Auvi so we could buy our train tickets to Chittagong next week. I was also going to buy my train ticket to Kolkata. I had lunch at the station. After lunch, I headed to the Kolkata ticket counter. The ticket buying requires a passport and visa, and I got stuck behind a guy registering his whole family of 15 people. A long wait. I filled out the form meanwhile, and then just stood there. He at least provided me good conversation. Auvi showed up during this time, and after I finally got to buy my ticket to Kolkata, we headed to the window to buy our Chittagong ticket. It took less than a minute. I felt a bit bad that Auvi had come all the way down there. But he didn’t mind, nothing else to do he said….coming from a guy in the middle of exams!
We also talked about our itinerary too, and how I have a fantasy football draft that Sunday! He has a wedding that day too. We’ll try to arrange both. I’ll be brining my laptop for sure.
Buying the tickets to both these places made me more excited to go there. Especially India.

I then rode two #6 buses from Kamalapur to Gulshan. I didn’t get off in between, and it took about 3.5 hours to do them. Both had lots of crowding and a few interesting people to talk to me. Conductors always talk to me after they see me stay on the bus between routes.

At night I bought the plan ticket from Kolkata to Chennai in September. I will fly the budget airline SpiceJet.
Ayon called, and we chatted about our trip to Rangpur this weekend. He told me all about his past trip to Sylhet, sounded like a blast. Lastly, he told me he’ll be coming to Chittagong. Uh oh, we bought our tickets today though, he better go soon and get his.

Week 48: Fish drop, faluda, friendship, fire truck (say it 5 times fast)

48th-1st in Dhaka 7/30

Not feeling too great today. Went to get breakfast and could only nibble on my food. Just no appetite.
Started a movie at home. Kind of worked on my data, doing some data pre-processing. Went out for lunch and had some soup and a desert called faluda, which is tasty and an array of various items: vermicelli, apples, raisins, pistachios, honey, sugar, and bananas. The wikipedia article calls it a drink, but here in Bangladesh its certainly a dessert and needs a spoon. Other sites call the version I ate Sheer-e-faluda

I feel like I’ve been taking more CNGs and taxis recently. Mostly it’s late at night and I’m coming home from Gulshan, or I’m hanging out with someone who doesn’t really want to ride buses.

To supplement the lack of text, here are some random things I’ve snapped photos of recently:
I found some Bangladeshi karaoke thing being sold at Rifles Square. (pic: "World's First Bangla Karaoke" on display at Rifles Square with a customer belting out a song in front of his friends as the Bengali words flash on the screen)















Adolf Hitler’s “Mein Kampf” translated into Bengali. I had stopped to consider buying Stephen Hawking's A Brief History of Time, which was not translated into Bengali (pic: Mein Kampf translated into Bengali being sold at Nilkhet Market)















Vin Diesel’s Triple X movie at a Bengali cinema, not sure if it’s dubbed or not. (pic: Triple X in theaters now...or as they called it, Triple Cross)















A fire station with some ancient looking fire trucks. (pic: fire station in Dhaka)

People getting Tahitian apples (Bengali: amra) ready to sell for the day, they’re enjoyed with salts on top and are quite sour, but are refreshing in the heat. The centers have thick fibers that aren't eaten. They are very popular for selling to bus riders. (pics: peeling and cutting the Tahitian apples for the day, a bowl full of Tahitian apples ready for selling)

Speaking of fruits. I'm beginning to see the fruits that were out when I first arrived. Mangoes are being seen less and less, while pineapples have been out for awhile and pomelos are hitting stands, although small ones.

48th-2nd in Dhaka 7/31

Work was good. I collected data at Kalabagan for the AM peak period. I then was able to get four buses done. It was a feeling of success. I’m blasting through this data collection, and will be glad to be done at the end. I’m still not taking long breaks on the buses, and it’s definitely showing in my efficiency. I could’ve done a 5th bus today if I had really felt up to it.

I don’t put enough pictures of the traffic or buses up here. So here are a few shots I’ve taken recently under bad conditions. (pics: Mirpur Road at Science Laboratory during the early evening, rickshaws backed up at Science Laboratory in the early evening and also note the silly looking billboard in the top left which I chuckle at every time I pass by, Airport Road at Banani/Kakoli bus stands in the middle of the day)





























And here are some photos I’ve taken recently for stock footage I’ll need for future reports on this. (pics: alighting from a moving bus in a sharee cannot be easy, boarding a moving bus can leave you struggling for your balance not to fall out, a beggar begs for change at Gulshan-1's west side bus stand as a Winner bus pulls up behind him, typical ticket counter)


































Instead of doing a 5th bus, I went to a goodbye dinner for my friend Luke. I wish I could’ve hung out with him more, but I had so many vacations while he was here. We had sushi at a Japanese restaurant, my first time having sushi since being in Raleigh! Not even close to as good as Sushi Blues, but still tasty. After we went to the Bagha Club and toasted him off with a few beers.

48th-3rd in Dhaka 8/1

I went over Ayon’s for the day. His mother served a great lunch to us. His sister and her husband were also there visiting. Her husband told me he will be in Chennai for the next three months, so I’ll be able to meet up with him when I go there for my conference. Later his aunts came by, to talk to their niece, so Ayon, her husband, and I were left hanging out in Ayon’s bedroom. I left after sharing tea with everyone.
I came home and finished watching a movie I’d started the other day and then went and got dinner.

After coming home, the guys who live downstairs and invited me in. We chatted for awhile at their place, about random topics. I then mentioned to them that I’ll be selling my furniture, and that if they’d like to take a look, they are very welcome. So they came up, and I showed them my place. They were interested in the TV, DVD player, fridge, and kitchen set. They’ll be living here, the five of them in one flat as big as mine, for 4 more years so buying this stuff is quite a good investment for them.

48th-4th in Dhaka 8/2

I posted my blog, and backed up my photos. The 4 GB flash drive I’d bought for that purpose is now full! Meaning I’ve taken that many photos in just this year! Incredible.

Moweena returned today. I was wondering if she had gone back to her village for good. She could easily do that and I’d never ever know. But after a week of being gone, she came today and cooked and cleaned.

For lunch I visited Jen and Ben. They leave this week, their last in Bangladesh. It’s amazing that within my time here, they came and will leave. They are great friends, and I’ll miss having them here. We’ve had many great times together. Today they had offered to share macaroni and cheese with me. They do a great job cooking up amazing meals. When I got there, Ben was purchasing tickets online, and we discussed the nuances of purchasing online fares. We chatted a lot over cooking and then eating. The afternoon finished with Ben telling me an incredible story. I had mentioned how my friend Peyton had recently climbed El Capitan again at Yosemite (see Saket's posts on it 1 2), so Ben jumped into an epic tale about his climb up El Capitan and how he funded his way there. It took over an hour to tell, but it was the best story I’ve heard in awhile. Knowing Jen has heard it scores of times, I wonder what her version would sound like.

I went to buy fish this afternoon. Stopped by my favorite supermarket and chose a fish from their fish department. They asked if they should cut it up, and I said sure, why not. So I watched him slice it, and another employee held open a bag to put the pieces in. the first employee grabbed this first piece, the fish’s head, and dropped it into the bag. And it went straight through! A hole opened up, or was already there, not sure, but the fish head fell right to the ground. SPLAT, BOUNCE! It was hilarious, I started cracking up, I couldn’t stop. They started laughing too. We all thought it was the funniest thing all day. Glad great moments like this happen.

48th-5th in Dhaka 8/3

Rode three buses today. Had limited time as I couldn’t work into the evening as I was meeting up with my friends at Pizza Hut. Although, I’m starting to get very tired of riding the buses. It is draining, especially these local buses, but I’m trying to get all this data collected before I leave. And I feel I’m having problems breathing these days, maybe it is because of all the fumes I inhale.

For dinner, a bunch of us met at Pizza Hut to celebrate today’s holiday: World Friendship Day. These past few days I’ve signs for dances and celebrations all over town. Places that people like to spend time at were all packed with people hanging out with friends. It was crazy to see the passion with which the holiday is celebrated.
So my friends and I had pizza. We all showed up late as the roads were jammed, maybe in part due to the holiday. We were there for two hours. They brought us the wrong size pizzas, too large. We would have to pay for it, and yet not be able to eat it all. Well we all braved it, and put pizza down our throats like we’d never done before. I felt sick by the end. (pics: Saquib/Ayon/myself at Pizza Hut for World Friendship Day even though I'm the only one looking, Farhan/Nipu laughing at Pizza Hut, Opu appears to have been a victim of someone's cruel "untwist the cap of the pepper just enough so that the next person has it spill out all over their food" trick, Opu/Faisal/myself/Ayon/Nipu posing in front of Pizza Hut after dinner)


































It was a nice time with the guys. With all of our schedules, these times are too spaced out.

48th-6th in Dhaka 8/4

I did a morning data collection in Banani, then did two #3 bus routes. They took longer than I thought they would. Jams seem to be bigger these days than ever before. It rained at points today, and it made being on a bus pretty bad, as everyone closes the windows on an already hot bus. When it rained during the morning data collection, I was under a shelter, and everyone came under when it rained, packing it, and making it hard to see the buses going by. I was squished.

I picked up my visa from the Vietnam embassy. The guard said I was a very lucky man to be receiving a second visa. I felt so too. I was actually worried they’d deny me just because it was my second. But now it’s nicely in my passport, and despite the double fee, I’ll be able to go to Vietnam in October.

Also went by the tailor who is making my tuxedo. They had it ready to be tried on, although not close to finished. Just the structure is there so they can see how it looks on me before finishing it up. It was weird to put on pants that didn’t even have a waistband yet, just a cloth strip. And a jacket with pieces of fabric sticking out everywhere. But i really liked it. It fit very well, and the shape was looking sharp. I’ll be excited to see the finished product, and then sport it in the US.

When I came home, there was a gigantic spider in my room. I was not going to bed with it by my bed. I had to kill it, I usually don’t enjoy killing bugs, but it was the biggest spider I’d seen, maybe ever. At least in the presence of my bed. I felt bad.

48th-7th in Dhaka 8/5

Today is 11 months.

I did a data collection at Kalabagan. Towards the end, a young guy came up to me and started talking to me. He asked if I had remembered him, he’s a guy who saw me last week at a nearby bus stop and tried to chat but it was dark out and I was having problems working, so didn’t talk then. Well now, midday, we talked. He was a real neat guy doing a lot of work in media in Bangladesh, but still a college student (in his third university, having a bit of grade issues.) I ended spending the afternoon with him. We walked back to his university, hung out where the students grab snacks, and chatted. One of his friends came by, a guy who’s from Kathmandu, so we were able to chat about my recent trip there, plus his thoughts on his country’s future now that it’s a democracy. It was a great afternoon. We headed over to Goethhe Institute, also known as the German Cultural Center, where they like to hang out. I’d heard the name before, but never had been. Well its being renovated right now, so none of the food items were available, which are supposed to be amazing. I stayed a bit before going to do another data collection.

After the data collection I met up with my friend Toma at a café nearby to the data collection. We chilled there for awhile, had dinner, then chilled at Dhanmondi Lake for awhile. I was exhausted from the day though, and was real glad to be home when I finally got there.